The second journey to the Phuktal Monastery

It's August 2024, and the second exploratory trip to Phuktal Monastery begins. New to the team is Hans-Mathias Liechti from Gasser Engineering AG / Felstechnik, who is joining Dechen, Stéphane and me on this trip. His aim is to analyse the rockfall situation on site in order to assess suitable safety measures, logistics and the associated costs.

On one of the most beautiful and spectacular flights in the world from Delhi to Leh, we cross the Himalayas and enjoy the sight of the majestic, snow-covered mountain giants, as well as the green, lush areas of the settlements that lie between the mighty mountain ranges.

Leh (3500 metres above sea level) is the multicultural capital of Ladakh and is often referred to as Little Kathmandu or Little Tibet. Politically Ladakh belongs to India, but there are culturally there are only a few similarities to the mother country.

There we meet Lama Chospel Zotpa, President of the Himalayan Buddhist Cultural

Association, and a biologist from GoGreen GoOrganic, who is committed to preserving the fragile and unique fragile and unique ecosystem through large-scale planting of shrubs and trees.

Lama Chospal explains to us that we need to draw up a report on the necessary

the necessary safety measures for the cave.This report will submitted to the relevant authorities for approval. For measures outside the monastery complex do not require any authorisation, so we can we can implement them immediately.

The biologist has assured us that he will assess the situation on site before the onset of winter. He will check whether and how, for example, willow, sea buckthorn or apricot trees, for example, which thrive at altitudes of up to 4800 metres above sea level, can be planted.

This time we do without optimal acclimatisation and set off on the third day of the trip

and set off on a long and strenuous jeep journey.

The route leads over bumpy gravel tracks littered with potholes to Padum, the capital of Zanskar.

After more than nine hours travelling over two passes (4700 m and 4840 m above sea level)

we reach Padum (3600 metres above sea level), which is mainly inhabited by Muslims, in the late afternoon.

The next day, we drive another two hours in the direction of the monastery to the

starting point of the footpath. Unfortunately, the footpath along the river is closed due to

rock blasting that is being carried out as part of the construction of the future road

towards the Phuktal monastery.

We therefore have to take the narrow path on the opposite, turquoise-blue side of the river.

The path meanders spectacularly along the steep slopes of the Tsarap Gorge.

The landscape is so overwhelming with its bizarre mountains and crystal-clear air,

that every single moment becomes a precious experience and the sum of these moments creates a wonderful overall picture.

The area is truly breathtaking - and not just because of the thin air.

After around an hour and a half, we reach the fascinating Phuktal cave monastery, where we are warmly welcomed by the novices.

For me, it almost feels like coming home - to a world that sometimes seems unrealistic.

Nevertheless, Hans-Matthias and I survey the cave the afternoon after our arrival and

the cave and discuss possible safety measures.

On the following days, we inspect the unstable steep slope above the monastery.

Expertly secured, we explore the terrain and develop ideas for sensible, efficient and cost-effective rockfall protection measures.

Our work is monitored by a drone so that everything is at least documented in the event of a slip.

We are duly honoured for our voluntary work in a special ceremony in the chapel.

Afterwards, Dechen and Hans-Matthias set off on their return journey to Leh, while Stéphane and I stayed longer in the monastery.

We want to take our time to take additional film footage of the monks' everyday life, the surroundings, the debating and learning of the young monks, as well as a special ceremony in the monastery.

After some time in Phuktal Monastery, it becomes clear why the people here have reached a level of spirituality that can hardly be found anywhere else in the world. The Tibetan Buddhism, which is the main religion in Ladakh and Zanskar, not only characterises the lives of the people, in this region but also the landscape in the same way.

We then travel from Leh over two passes (5359 m and 5480 m above sea level) to the Diskit Monastery in the Nubra Valley and to the beautiful, unspoilt and sacred Pangong Lake.

This lake, which lies at 4300 metres above sea level, is the highest saltwater lake in the world and is located on the border with China. Access for tourists was only opened in 2021.

Despite the barren landscape, you are overcome by an awe-inspiring and exhilarating feeling, while the internalised sense of time blows away in the wind - a wonderful farewell to this unique Ladakh region.

In Leh, Hans Matthias ordered materials for the construction of a test section for rockfall protection.

Based on the sketches he drew up, a section has already been built on the steep slope above the monastery.

Fortunately, the entire 2024 exploration trip was very successful.

We are optimistic about next year, in which we would like to implement further safety measures against falling rocks for the monastery.

To do this, we will of course need financial resources, which we hope will flow into our donation account.

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Written by Röne Rüegg.